THE BED BUG BOOK

The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
By Certified Entomologist Ralph H. Maestre

Magic is proud to announce that our very own Technical Director Ralph H. Meastre BCE has published his first book. All of us have benefited by Ralph's expertise in Termites, Rodents, Ants and especially Bed Bugs.

In the book Ralph goes through Bed Bug case studies detailing how people got them, how Magic eradicated them and the advice given to prevent the return of Bed Bugs.

Ralph will be appearing on Good Morning America February 23, 2011 and will be interviewed around the country on an ABC Satellite Radio Tour February 24, 2011.

Below is the official press release from Skyhorse Publishing:

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
CONTACT: Esther Bochner
ebochner@skyhorsepublishing.com
212 643 6816 x 224

ARE YOU SAFE FROM BED BUGS?
EXTERMINATOR RALPH MAESTRE SHOWS YOU HOW TO PROTECT YOUR HOME AND YOUR FAMILY!

THE BED BUG BOOK
The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
By Certified Entomologist Ralph H. Maestre

“They were everywhere. The bed bugs were in the dentures, toothbrush, dressers, ceiling, walls, baseboards, sofa, dining room table, inside groceries, and in a picture frame of The Last Supper.”
- From a cast study in The Bed Bug Book

Bed bugs were believed to have been eradicated in the 1940s and ‘50s, but after a 1972 ban on the use of DDT, the dreaded insects are now reaching epidemic levels! Recent high-profile infestations include the Empire State Building, apartments at the University of Texas at Dallas, the New York City Department of Health, and the Victoria’s Secret and Elle Magazine headquarters. Outbreaks have occurred in Cincinnati, Denver, Los Angeles, Phoenix, and hundreds of other cities throughout the country. No tourist attraction, department store, or home is safe from these creepy, crawly, pesky vermin. Are you prepared?

In The Bed Bug Book, board certified entomologist and practicing exterminator Ralph Maestre provides answers that will protect you, your home, and your family from catching bed bugs, and educate you about how to get rid of them and prevent them from coming back if you’ve already gotten them.

Some of the vital advice that you will read inside includes:
• There is no silver bullet for bed bugs. Despite public wishes, there is no one pesticide that is easy to apply, needs only one application, is safe for the environment, and has no ill health effects on humans. It is important to constantly be alert to signs of bed bugs, and educate yourself about how to maintain a bed bug-free home, spot them if they do appear, and find an extermination method that is safe for you and your family.
• Throwing out your mattress does not solve the problem. This is an extremely common misconception. Bed bugs migrate off the bed and hide in cracks and crevices in the room.
• The importance of being alert while traveling. One of the most common places for families to get bed bugs is on vacation. Practical things that you can do to prevent this from happening to you are: inspect your luggage on every step of the trip, inspect your hotel room before use, and launder all clothing as soon as you get home.
• Picking the right pest management company is key. Choosing the right exterminator for you is the best way to make sure that the bed bugs are really gone. Pick an exterminator that has been around for a while. Make sure their personnel are certified and have insurance. Ask if they have an entomologist on staff or on retainer for consultations.
• The government needs to step in and help. With the bed bug situation in this country getting worse by the day, the government needs to step in and help its citizens learn about and solve the problem. They should provide education on identification and common treatment methods. They should provide grant money for research and support individuals in need of assistance who can’t take care of the problem, such as the elderly. It is only with steps like this that we will begin to see a real change in the state of bed bug infestation.

In The Bed Bug Book, based on years of pest control experience, Maestre provides real case studies of people and places where he found bed bugs including: why the people he describes got them, how he exterminated them, and the advice he gave the residents to make sure they didn’t come back.

It is absolutely VITAL that the American public read this book and begin making smarter, more educated choices that will begin minimizing the extent to which bed bugs plague this country! With Maestre’s help, we can all take comfort and pride in living bed bug-free lives!


About the Author:
RALPH H. MAESTRE is a board certified entomologist in urban and industrial entomology. He received his BA in environmental science with a minor in biology. Maestre has been a New York State certified commercial pesticide applicator since 1987. He is currently supervisor of pest control technicians at Magic Exterminating in New York City.

To schedule an interview with Ralph Maestre or excerpt some of the tips inside please contact: Esther Bochner / 212 643 6816 x 224 / ebochner@skyhorsepublishing.com

The Bed Bug Book
The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
By Ralph H. Maestre, board certified entomologist
Skyhorse Publishing Paperback Original
On Sale: February 23rd, 2010
ISBN: 978-1-61608-299-4
Price: $12.95

New Rodenticide Label and Regulation Changes Taking Place by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

The following Risk Mitigation has been or will be enacted by the EPA

• Risk Identified:

There has been direct and secondary poisonings of non-target species.
There is well documented 2nd gen. anticoagulant presence in livers of raptors, foxes, wild cats, and deer.

• Mitigation Required:

EPA wants to reduce availability of 2nd gen. anticoagulants to homeowners. EPA will prohibit sale of 2nd gen. products in retail stores. There will be new packaging size requirements for 2nd gen. products. New packaging sizes of 8 lbs for agriculture products / 16 lbs for professionals (PCOs)

Most important is that the rodenticides (2nd Generations) applied outdoors (non-field) use must be within 50 ft. of buildings.

Bait Stations will be changed as well to the following:
Tiered bait station requirements for all “residential consumer” products

• Tier I – Tamper-Resistance and Weather-Resistant
These bait stations are resistant to weather and to tampering by children and dogs. To be used indoors and outdoors (within 50 feet of buildings).

• Tier II – Tamper-Resistant (but not weather resistant)
These bait station are resistant to tampering by children and dogs. To be used indoors only.

• Tier III – Tamper-Resistant for Children Only
These bait stations are resistant to tampering by children. To be used indoors only.

• Tier IV – Tamper-Resistance Unknown
These bait stations may not claim to be tamper resistant. To be used indoors only and only in areas inaccessible to children and pets.

read more at the EPA website http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/reregistration/rodenticides/

Webbing Cloth Moths, Case Making Moths, Hide Beetles by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

Clothes moth larvae feed on wool, feathers, fur, hair, leather, lint, dust, paper, and occasionally cotton, linen, silk, and synthetic fibers. They are especially damaging to fabric stained with beverages, urine, oil from hair, and sweat. Most damage is done to articles left undisturbed for a long time, such as old military uniforms and blankets, wool upholstery, feathered hats, antique dolls and toys, natural bristle brushes, weavings, wall hangings, piano felts, old furs, and especially wool carpets under heavy furniture and clothing in storage.
Damaged fabrics have holes eaten through them by small, white larvae and often have silken cases, lines of silken threads, and fecal pellets over the surface of the materials. Moths are destructive during the larvae stage. Adult "millers" or moths are entirely harmless.

Identification
Adult webbing clothes moths have a wingspread of about 1/2-inch. The body is about 1/4-inch long with wings folded and golden-yellow with a satiny sheen. A tuft of hairs on the head is upright and reddish-gold. Eggs are oval, ivory, and about 1/24-inch long. Larvae are a shiny, creamy white with a brown head, up to 1/2-inch long. The larvae spin long threads and construct tunnels of silk.

Adult case making clothes moths have a 1/2-inch wingspread. Forewings are yellowish-brown, and there are usually three distinct, dark dots on the outer third of each wing. Hind wings are smaller, lighter, and fringed with hair and scales. Eggs are whitish, and larvae are opaque-white with brown heads. The larva spins a small silken case around itself and carries it while feeding.

Casemaking Clothes Moth: Adult and Larva
Adult carpet or tapestry moths are larger than webbing or case making clothes moths at 1/3- to 5/12-inch long with a 3/4-inch wingspread. Adults have white heads, with the first third of the front wings black and the lower two-thirds creamy white. Hind wings are pale gray. Larvae are small, creamy white caterpillars with dark heads.

Life Cycle and Habits
Clothes moths rarely fly to lights at night and instead prefer darkness, such as a closet or storage chest. Any clothes moths fluttering around the house are probably males, because females travel by running, hopping, or trying to hide in the folds of clothing. Female webbing cloth moths lay 40 to 50 eggs that hatch in 4 to 21 days. Larvae like to feed on soiled material, spinning silken mats or tunnels and incorporating textile fragments and bits of fecal pellets. Larvae will wander some distance away from their food source to pupate in crevices. The pupa case is silken with bits of fiber and excrement attached to the outside. The life cycle is about 65 to 90 days.

The case making clothes moth is less common than the webbing clothes moth. Larvae spin a small silken case around themselves as they feed. This cigar-shaped case enlarges as the larva grows. When crawling, the larva's head, thorax, and three pairs of legs, outside the case, drag it along. It does not spin a web of silk over the food material but eats clean-cut holes, not usually in one spot. Females live about 30 days and lay 100 to 300 eggs. The larva stage lasts 50 or more days, and the pupal stage is passed in the case or cocoon. There are about 2 generations a year.

Adult carpet or tapestry moths are rarely found. Females lay 50 to 100 eggs in a lifetime, and the larva develops in about 3 months as it builds silken tubes or burrows through infested materials, such as hair-stuffed furniture, tapestries, old carpets, furs, and feathers.

Clothes moth development is greatly influenced by humidity. About 75-percent relative humidity in a heated, dark room is ideal.

Control Measures

Inspection
Locate the source of infestation before treatment. Examine closets and stored goods for larvae cases, moths, and damage. Larvae prefer to feed in secluded, dark places. Use a flashlight and nail file to check for woolen lint and hair under baseboards, in and under seldom moved upholstered furniture, in air ducts, in carpets at the corners of the room and along edges, in stored clothing, and in other places not readily accessible. Check furs or feathers, such as stuffed birds or animal heads, antique feather beds, or felt in pianos, woolen scrap piles, etc. Adult moths do not feed in fabrics, but may be seen in darkened corners at night.

A new pheromone for the webbing clothes moth is available through Insects Limited Inc.

Prevention
Good housekeeping is critical for preventing or controlling clothes moth damage. Never allow clothing, rugs, etc. to lie in a neglected pile. Regular use of a strong suction vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool to remove lint, hair, and dust from floor cracks, baseboards, air ducts, carpets, and upholstered furniture is necessary. Keep closets and dresser drawers clean. Regularly clean rugs where they fit close to the baseboards and under the quarter round. Inspect stored foods and eliminate bird nests and dead rodents. Launder and dry clean or steam clean clothes and other items before storage. Egg-laying clothes moths are attracted to soiled articles. Ironing will also destroy all stages of clothes moths. Sun, brush, and expose clothing to the weather. Outdoors, bright, hot sunlight, and wind will reduce larvae and damage. Frequent use of woolens and other animal fiber clothing almost assures no damage from clothes moth larvae.

Cedar-lined chests and closets are not 100 percent effective. The natural cedar oil evaporates and a fresh treatment of cedar oil should be applied every two years. Be sure that all cloth goods be dry cleaned, washed, pressed with a hot iron, sunned, or brushed prior to storage in an airtight container with an effective moth repellent.

Constant light illumination in the closet may discourage moths. Use tight-fitting doors. Try suspending wall to floor cotton drapes in front of clothing to keep dust and moths away. Fur storage in cold vaults is effective. Mothproofing when woolens are manufactured may be effective forever, whereas treatments at dry cleaners are less permanent and need to be renewed regularly.

Freezing has been successfully used to control clothes moths. Place fabric in polyethylene bags, squeeze all air out to minimize condensation, and deep freeze the materials for three days. Infested antique objects should be either fumigated or deep frozen by an experienced licensed pest control operator.

Insecticides
It is best not to treat clothing with insecticides due to possible damage to the garments. All cracks and crevices in infested areas should be treated with a residual insecticide. After thoroughly cleaning rugs, rug pads, under heavy furniture, and carpets, especially around the edges, dust under the edges of carpeting, cracks in closets, under baseboard, and molding or other hiding places. Any wall void that might contain old rodent, bird, or insect nests should be drilled and dusted.

Sprays can be used as spot treatments to kill any moths that might alight or wandering larvae. Do not treat clothing. The licensed pest control operator or applicator can use sprays in such places. Infested stuffed furniture and other salvageable commodities should be fumigated by a licensed pest control operator or applicator. Before using any insecticides, always read the label directions and follow safety precautions.

Key to Fabric and Fur Damage
Most scientific keys are used to identify a specific insect. This key is a damage key and can help you determine the pest that is causing the damage to wool, furs, or hides.

Begin with the first pair of questions under
*If you choose answer a., proceed to question 2.
*If answer b. fits the damage instead, proceed to question 3. Continue to work your way through the pairs of questions until you arrive at the pest or problem.

1. a. Silken tubes, silk cases, or silk webbing on the surface of the fabric---2
b. No silk on surface of the fabric---3
2. a. Attached silk tubes with bits of material attached may contain bun-shaped fecal pellets which are the color of the fabric, as well as live larvae. Nap of fabric eaten away in spots, or holes completely through fabric. On fur, hairs are cut at base, leaving clumps of loose fur. Some mats of webbing present---webbing clothes moth
b. Cigar-shaped silk cases with bits of material attached and one end open. Larvae live inside and carry cases with them as they feed. Fabric surface is damaged in irregular furrows or holes completely through fabric. Webbing essentially absent---case-making clothes moth
3. a. Shed larval skins usually present in fabric. Frass present as irregular pellets often the color of the material. In fabric, much surface damage with various penetrating holes---4
b. No larval skins or frass present---7
4. a. In fur, main damage to tips of the hairs, leaving numerous uneven areas but base of hairs remains in place---varied, furniture, and common carpet beetle
b. In fur, hairs are cut at base, become loose and fall out---5
5. a. Hide may be bare where hairs have been cut and fallen out, but no injury to hide itself---black carpet beetle
b. Damage to hide evident---6
6. a. Damage is on the inner surface of the hide. There may be holes and hair may fall out if larvae completely penetrate the hide to the fur side---hide beetle
b. Damage is on the outer surface of the hide, at the base of hairs. Hairs become loose and fall out---cabinet beetle
7. a. Fabric threads pulled, broken, torn, or looped but no loss of threads; exposed ends frayed. In rugs, loops pulled out---mechanical damage
b. Irregular or round holes that might penetrate the fabric. Tips of exposed threads usually curled and charred. In fur, curling of damaged hairs; hide scorched---burns

[Adapted from a key developed by Dr. John V. Osmun, Purdue University]

For more information on Fabric Destroying Pests in New York City, visit Magic Exterminating.

Bed Bug History in New York City 1944 by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

First a little history lesson in history, from the web site located at http://www.newyorkvsbedbugs.org/. Renee Cornea worked on the bed bug committee for the City of New York and is a private citizen. She has worked endless hours to create and maintain the web site. It is by far one of the best informational site on the subject.

I hope you enjoy this little taste of information. Notice the date!

New York vs Bed Bugs (1944) Posted on April 24, 2009 by Renee Corea

“NEW YORK THIS SUMMER HAD PLAGUE OF BEDBUGS” St. Petersburg Times, 10/10/1944:

New Yorkers suffered not only from heat and humidity this summer—the city had a plague of bedbugs.

Congested areas all over the country had the same complaint. The 1944 season was hailed as one of “the worst” to date by the insects’ victims; one of “the best” by the dozens of exterminating companies that rushed to their rescue.

The Sameth Exterminating Company, Inc., one of the largest in the metropolitan area, reported calls averaging 120 a day during the height of the heat—not including contract customers such as hotels, theatres and warehouses.

There is a familiar diagnosis:

One of the main drawbacks in combating the pests, exterminators say, is that many people are ashamed to admit their presence.

“They think bedbugs are a disgrace,” one exterminator said, “but anybody can pick them up anywhere—in theatres, subways, busses, trains. The thing to do is get rid of them and then forget it.”

The exterminators agree that there is no sure way of preventing bedbugs.

And a working bed bug savvy meter:

[A]ny exterminator who walks into a house and sees a lot of coats lying across a bed will throw up his hands in horror.

“That’s practically planting the bugs,” they shudder.

And then a simple and reasonable hope, or perhaps the DDT PR machine of 1944:

Dr. Austin Frishman Lasting Legacy

Magic would like to thank Dr. Frishman for his vision, guidance and assistance.

read the article at Pest Management Professional September 2010

Fungus Beetles by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

Common Name:
Foreign Grain Beetle
Hairy Fungus Beetle
Plaster or Minute Brown Scavenger Beetle
Sigmoid Fungus Beetle
Acute-angled Fungus Beetle
Scientific Name:
Ahasverus advena (Waltl)
Mycetophagus punctatus Say
Melanophthalma americana Mannerheim
Cryptophagus varus Woodroffe & Coombs
Cryptophagus acutangulus Gyllenhal

Fungus beetle is a general term covering several different beetles associated with damp, humid conditions where fungi, molds and mildew occur. When new homes are built, moist uncured lumber and/or freshly plastered or papered walls that become covered with molds, attract these beetles. Some occur in sawdust left in wall voids after construction. They often build heavy populations throughout late summer and early fall. These mold-feeding beetles sometimes are found in decaying plant material, woodpiles, mammal, ant or termite nests, damp cereals, grains, herbs, spices, cheese, jam, jellies, fibers and carpeting, especially in cellars. Attracted by lights, these small beetles, can crawl or fly through window or door screens, and then wander aimlessly. Heavy populations may first show up trapped in bathtubs, sinks or around lamps and TV sets. They are simply a nuisance by their presence and do not bite, sting, spread human diseases nor damage wood, food, fabric, etc.

Identification
The foreign grain beetle is camel-brown colored and about 1/16-inch long with a conspicuous rounded lobe or "knob" on the four corners of the thorax (area between the head and wing covers). The body is covered with dense pubescence (short, fine hairs) and dimple-like punctures with clubbed antennae. Other fungus beetles are less than 1/12-inch long with body color varying from yellowish to black. Also, most have punctures on the body and clubbed antennae. A good quality hand lens or microscope is necessary to see these characteristics.

Life Cycle and Habits
Most complaints of these nuisance beetles occur in late July, August, and September. Beetles often become quite abundant, especially after a period of rainy weather. However, development from egg to adult depends on temperature. Some beetles complete their life cycle in 25 to 36 days at 75 deg F., in 54 days at 65 deg F., or up to five months and longer at lower temperatures. Beetles are attracted to lights and feed entirely on the spores and hyphae of fungi. Later, eggs are laid on food material such as poorly-seasoned green lumber, wet plaster and wall board, moldy grains, etc. Larvae develop in the molds, maturing to adults later. Sometimes, stored foods may become contaminated from cast skins and excreta. Also, infestations are associated with poor ventilation, high humidity, plumbing leaks, etc.

Control Measures
Most infestations are temporary and self-limiting, but their presence is objectionable to many homeowners.

Prevention
Often it is difficult to locate the source of infestation since beetles may be feeding on fungi associated with neglected grains, yeast, moldy flowers, wall voids with rodent and insect nests, decaying plant materials, moldy wallpaper, freshly plastered walls, around moist window cases or poor plumbing. Any action taken to dry out damp conditions supporting fungal growth, essential to these beetles, will greatly reduce or eliminate populations. Most homes dry out naturally within a year or two, and the fungi disappears along with the beetles. Usually adequate artificial heating and ventilation will stop infestations. Periods of dry weather with relatively low humidity (below 60 percent) will reduce numbers. Be sure that dry foods are stored in insect-proof containers (glass, heavy plastic or metal) ideally with screw-type lids free of mold. A strong suction vacuum cleaner with proper attachments will collect many beetles.

Insecticides
If moisture problems cannot be corrected, commercial household labeled fungicides may be effective in eliminating fungal growth in selected areas. Household aerosol sprays of pyrethrins will kill many beetles when applied in crevices under baseboards, around windows, doors and lights. Repeat treatments will be needed to control newly emerging adults. Residual contact sprays will help give control.

Dust formulations are applied into wall voids and other hard to reach places can be effective. Before using any insecticide, always READ THE LABEL and follow directions and safety precautions.

Reference: Ohio State Pest fact Sheets

If you've noticed problems with Fungus Beetles in your New York City business or residence, contact Magic Exterminators today to resolve the issue.

Backswimmers & Water Striders by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

Water Strider

Adults are between 5/16 to 5/8 inch long, dull to grayish or reddish brown above and silvery gray on the underside of the body. Many have long slender bodies with long, slender legs and antennae. The front legs are short and modified for grasping while the middle and hind legs are long, like stilts with claws. These insects creep on the surface of running water or pools in a slow deliberate gait where they feed on live and dead insects, crustacea and other organisms. They overwinter as adults. Long, cylindrical eggs are laid during spring and summer in parallel rows glued to objects at the water's edge. Adults are called "skaters" or "Jesus Bugs," apparently for their ability to walk on water of ponds, lakes and streams.

These insects are found in residential pools and will bite. The customer would have to shock (use chlorine) the pool. We do not treat for them.

Backswimmers - Notonectidae

Scientific Classification
Notonectidae or backswimmers is a family of insects of the Hemiptera order. Back swimmers, or Greater Water Boatmen are hemipteran bugs. They are named backswimmers because they are aquatic predators that swim upside down. They are up to 15 mm in size. They are similar to corixidae, but can be separated by differences in their dorsal-ventral coloration, front legs, and behavior. Their dorsum convex is light colored without cross striations. Their front tarsi are not scoop-shaped and hind legs fringed for swimming.

The size of air bubble that provide buoyancy changes as the nitrogen dissolve into the blood and the oxygen is used in respiration. Notonectidae carry extra oxygen supply using haemoglobin in their abdomen. This helps them regulate the size of its air bubble and the concentration of oxygen inside it. [1]

Backswimmer swimming on its back

The main genus of backswimmers is Notonecta- streamlined, deep-bodied bugs up to 16 mm long, green, brown or yellowish in colour. As the common name indicates, these aquatic insects swim on their backs, vigorously paddling with their long, hair-fringed hind legs.

Backswimmers are predators and attack prey as large as tadpoles and small fish, and can inflict a painful bite on human finger. They inhabit still freshwater, e.g. lakes, pools, marshes, and are sometimes found in garden ponds. They can fly well and so migrate easily to new habitats.

The Common Backswimmer is Notonecta glauca, widespread in the United Kingdom and Europe. Another species is N. maculata, distinguished by mottled brick-coloured forewings.

This is another insect found in residential pool and may bite clients. Again the homeowners must shock (use Chlorine). We do not treat for them.

a half-submerged Common Backswimmer (Notonecta glauca)

References
Chinery, M. (1986) Collins Guide to the Insects of Britain & Western Europe. Collins. ISBN 0 00 219137-7.
Fitter, R. & Manuel, R. (1986) Collins Field Guide to Freshwater Life. Collins. ISBN 0 00 219143-1.
Hungerford, H. B. (1933) The genus Notonecta of the world. U. Kansas Sci. Bull. 21: 5-195.

External links
Close-up photo by J. Hlasek
Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Notonectidae"